Naked Edge Women’s Speed Record Set by Kelleghan, Pineau

In the storied cliffs of Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, a new chapter has been written. Climbers Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau have achieved a remarkable feat, setting a new women's speed record on the iconic route, The Naked Edge, with a time of 37 minutes and 8 seconds.

The Magic of the Route

So, why The Naked Edge?

“It’s one of the most famous routes in Colorado,”  Kelleghan said. “It’s a notorious Eldo testpiece for 5.11 climbing, on tricky sandstone that's known to be sandbagged.”

The Naked Edge stands as a testament to climbing excellence. This 460-foot, six-pitch route has long been revered for its technical challenges and breathtaking exposure. First ascended with aid by Layton Kor and Bob Culp in 1962, it wasn’t until 1971 that Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson achieved the first free ascent, marking a significant milestone in climbing history. In 1978, Beth Bennett, alongside Lynn Hill and Jean Dempsey, made the first all-female ascent, paving the way for future generations of women climbers.

But the route isn’t just difficult—it’s elegant.

“It lends itself to smooth, flowy climbing. Once you start speed climbing it, it’s so fun to cover that much ground that quickly. We’d be up at 5:30 a.m., climb the Edge, and still make it to work by 8:30. You can’t do that many other places.”

Photo by James Lucas

Setting the Record

This wasn’t Kelleghan’s first time making history on The Naked Edge.

“The previous record was actually one that my friend Becca and I had set three years ago,”  Kelleghan explained. “But when I knew Laura was coming to Boulder and we were training to speed climb together, this was the obvious choice.”

Initially, the goal wasn’t to beat the previous time.

“I hadn’t planned on going that fast again,” she said. “But after our first lap clocked in at 51 minutes, I thought—okay, we actually have the potential to go that fast again, so why not try?”

That mindset led to an intensive two-week focus solely on The Naked Edge—repeating it, analyzing it, and refining every move.

Mastering the Route with Vertical GPS Tracking

To reach this level of efficiency, every detail counted. Kelleghan and Pineau used COROS’ vertical GPS tracking to break down their attempts, reviewing data on approach times, climb segments, and descent.

“We used the climb function on the watch to break up our effort into the approach, climb time, and descent,” Kelleghan shared. “That let us see exactly where we could shave minutes—like cutting one or two off the approach, a couple off the climb, and two to three on the descent.”

By analyzing detailed GPS and time splits, they pinpointed opportunities and turned a 51-minute climb into a 37-minute record-breaker.

If you’re interested in tracking your own vertical adventures, the COROS VERTIX 2S offers unparalleled dual-frequency accuracy and durability for high-exposure routes like this.

Photo by James Lucas

Speed climbing isn’t just about strength—it’s about managing effort. With COROS heart rate monitors, the duo gained critical insight into how hard they could push—and when.

“I could maintain 165 to 170 beats per minute for almost the entire effort,” Kelleghan said. “If I saw it dip—besides the top where I’m pulling Laura up—I knew I could consciously push a bit harder.”

She hit 189 BPM during the final sprint, while Pineau reached 194 BPM. These peak heart rates aligned with their all-out summit pushes—vivid proof of smart pacing and energy management.

Learn more about heart rate zones and training in our Heart Rate Zones Guide.

Recovery, Readiness, and the Role of Sleep

Preparation didn’t end at the crag. In the days leading up to each attempt, both athletes paid close attention to their sleep and recovery metrics.

“We were comparing sleep every night,” Kelleghan said. “It was kind of fun—seeing perceived tiredness versus what the watch was telling us. We wanted to land in ‘great sleep’ territory before any big effort.”

That attention to detail even led to surprising tweaks. “Laura would get poor sleep after watching speed record videos of the route—she’d lay awake replaying moves in her head,” she laughed. “So we had to stop doing that, and her sleep improved.”

Curious how recovery affects your performance? Read more about Recovery Metrics.

A Data-Driven Future for Climbers

Photo by James Lucas

For climbers looking to combine traditional techniques with modern technology, Kelleghan’s advice is clear: embrace the data.

“If you want to perform better, you need data. You’re kind of just living in a vacuum if you’re not tracking anything,” she emphasized. “Even if you’re not chasing speed records, it’s fun to see how many pitches you're doing at the gym or monitor your heart rate under load. It gives you a plan—whether that’s improving, maintaining, or just understanding your performance.”

Pushing Limits, Inspiring Others

The record-breaking ascent of The Naked Edge by Kelleghan and Pineau is more than a milestone—it's a testament to what’s possible when passion meets precision. With COROS tools and their own fierce determination, they didn’t just beat the clock. They redefined the edge of possibility.