The Master of Climbing Fast: Hans Florine

Hans Florine's contributions to speed climbing extend beyond his record-setting ascents. He has become a mentor and inspiration to climbers worldwide, emphasizing the importance of efficiency, preparation, and mental resilience.

This month marks the 20th anniversary of Hans Florine's book, Speed Climbing!: How To Climb Faster And Better. We sat down with Hans to get his take on how climbing has changed over the years and get his thoughts on how technology will push the sport forward.

How do you feel the sport has changed or evolved over the years?

When I started climbing in 1983 there was only the very beginning of “sport climbing.”  There were NO climbing gyms. If you encountered other climbers at the cliff, they had torn blue jean shorts, or scrappy clothing and unshaven faces. 1 in 20 were women. A visit to any popular crag in 2024 would be met with women and men in bright expensive outdoor clothing and shiny new cars. And many many more people. I don’t think it’s bad, I love it. Climbing is a much better activity for people to be doing than hanging in the city.

The sport of climbing has experienced significant growth since 2020. Between 2014 and the end of 2023, the number of climbing gyms in the United States increased by 76% (source: Climbing Business Journal). This influx of new athletes, has, in some ways changed the sport and brought with it a more modern approach. Even for climbers like Hans.

What role does technology play today and how do you think it can help with the future of the sport?

I’ve always been a numbers person and always kept track of my performance. I always wanted to improve on my previous self. So for me, technology is a means to do that journalling or recording much faster, more accurate, and makes it far easier to share with your chosen community. That is key for me. It makes me accountable to my friends, my community. That also means I am inspired by others, and they are, hopefully, motivated by me.

The Key to Speed Climbing

In the world of speed climbing, efficiency is everything. The ability to scale sheer rock faces swiftly and with precision demands not just physical strength but also a strategic approach to every move. No one embodies this philosophy better than Hans.

What is the key to climbing efficiently?

Being open to always learning new ways to do things. Always pondering: what can I do right now to help the team move upward?

The sport is as much mental as it is physical. Having the right mindset is crucial for success. Every motion, every reach, and every foothold must be executed with precision and purpose. Efficiency in movement reduces the energy expended, minimizes risk, and maximizes speed.

How do you train to be better or a more efficient climber?

Loads of climbing. I often find that when you climb so much mileage that you are fatigued, you start doing things in a way that is the most efficient way to do the movement, you can’t just “muscle through it.” You often need to get yourself tired to find out what the most efficient way to move is.

Hans Florine's record-setting climbs are a testament to the critical role of efficiency and mental training. His ability to identify the optimal route, anticipate challenges, and transition smoothly between holds under fatigue sets him apart. For Florine, speed climbing is not just about quickness but about intelligent climbing—making every move count.

Using Technology to Enhance Performance

In recent years, technological advancements have increased effciencies even more. One such innovation is through the use of COROS, which Hans Florine integrates into his climbing routines. The COROS VERTIX 2S,  designed for athletes, offer precise data and biometric tracking, allowing climbers to objectively measure their performance on and off the wall.

In your mind, what's the best way to use COROS and the VERTIX 2S in climbing?

Really, the best use is to think of the five M's: Measure, monitor, manage, motivate, and manifest change. If you record where you are, you can manage and monitor your progress to your goals.

Tracking Performance with COROS

For Hans, COROS technology serves as an invaluable tool to refine his climbing strategy. By tracking the time taken on each pitch, a climber like Florine can analyze his performance, identify areas for improvement, and adjust his techniques accordingly. This data-driven approach not only enhances his efficiency but also provides insights that can be shared with the climbing community.

Analyzing time spent at each pitch can help a climber determine where to improve

Elevation summary from climbing The Nose at El Capitan in Yosemite

During a typical climb, Florine's COROS watch and heart rate monitor records bio metric data. In addition for climbers, vital metrics such as pitch time, elevation gain and vertical GPS, provide crucial information for understanding the physical demands of each section of the route and optimizing energy use. The ability to review this data post-climb enables Florine to continually refine his approach, striving for even greater efficiency.

Data displayed from Nose In A Night climb from Hans Florine and partner Hans Beuttler in October

Through his use of COROS technology, Florine demonstrates how modern tools can elevate the sport, offering new ways to analyze and enhance performance.

Do you have any other words of advice to climbers considering taking up speed climbing?

Smooth is fast. Rushed, hurried, often turns into mistakes and takes more times to fix. Think out how to be quick, and have a sense of urgency, but don’t get flustered and overwhelmed with doing too much at once. I can’t stress enough to climb with and observe from others who are more experienced than you or different experience than you.

Speed climbing is an exhilarating blend of athleticism, strategy, and technology. For climbers like Hans Florine, efficiency is the key to success, transforming daunting ascents into record-breaking achievements. As the sport continues to evolve, the integration of innovative tools like COROS wearables will undoubtedly play a crucial role in pushing the boundaries of what is possible. For those aspiring to follow in Florine's footsteps, the message is clear: climb smart, climb efficiently, and embrace the power of technology to reach new heights.

Click here to learn how COROS can help improve your climbing.